The village without streets

From 2002-2004, I lived in a small village called Gbeko, which is located on an island in the Oume river. There was no electricity, phones, or police.

To reach the isolated village, I took a canoe ride that lasted between 10 minutes to 3 hours, depending on the time of year. During the rainy season the entire valley flooded. Although the village itself is on high land, the neighboring villages became stilt villages. I bought a canoe and took trips to visit all of the villages in the valley.

In the seven years since I left the village there was a lot of change. Of course the biggest change was the children themselves who have all grown up and become parents and respected community members. I was so happy to see my old friends and hear their stories. Here is a summary of my observations:

Changes

• Fish stocks have been dramatically reduced, both in terms of the quantity and size of the fish harvested
• The price of nearly everything has doubled (the canoe ride has gone from 10 to 25 CFA and a fried donut has gone from 5 to 10 CFA)
• The amount of money received for the produce grown and harvested has increased dramatically
• The secondary school includes all grades, including senior year (terminal)
• The majority of young men will complete (or at least attend secondary school)
• Most girls will complete primary school and most will attend secondary school
• There are female teachers in the schools, including four at the secondary level
• There is some cell phone network coverage
• Some houses have generators
• These houses also have DVD players where people watch movies and Goun/Fon music videos
• There are many zemidjans
• Alcoholism (sodabi) is a serious problem
• There are refrigerators and cold beverages
• There are many cement houses, including one three-story palace (unoccupied)
• Belief in Voudun is starting to show a serious decline
• Many market women cover their food to protect it from flies/contamination
• Increase in number of large churches
• Tofu is sold everywhere
• The road between Porto Novo and Azowlisse is paved

No changes

• Narrow, winding paths connect compounds
• Hot water is pumped from the deep under the ground
• Most houses are made out of mud
• The main crops are manioc, sweet potatoes, okra, rice, and hot peppers
• Most girls get pregnant/married before completing secondary school (often with teachers or even the school directors)
• Childbirth is the biggest threat to women's lives
• There is only a night market in Gbeko, with large markets near by in Dekin, Zoudounou, and Azowlisse
• Funerals can last more than five days
• Most people get married without having a wedding (just start living together)
• There is not a single NGO helping people in the village (except for the flood victims last year)
• Belief in sorcery is as very strong and is used to explain every good or bad event that happens in peoples' lives
• Belief in the power of the spirits living among humans is strong
• Women work longer hours than men (and do equally difficult tasks)
• Akassa or pate (white, red, or black) is eaten for every meal
• Sauces with a lot of pepper
• My luggage- I brought with me the exact two bags I used in Benin