We took a taxi from Nouakchott to Maghama. After Lexieba there is no road, just tracks to follow in the dried dirt. After an hour of driving off-road, the car stopped. I thought we had a flat tire. I looked at the setting sun and pictured a long night. To my surprise, a man got out from the front seat of the car, collected his baggage and started walking. I looked closely in the direction he was going and saw the outline of distant houses. I stared at him until he disappeared into the horizon. How did he know he had arrived? We drove for another two hours and never saw another person, animal, or village.
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