Tabaski in Kaolack

This year for my third year of celebrating Tabaski since arriving in Mauritania, I decided to travel to Senegal to join in the festivities there. I visited my best friend Aissata, a former student from Brooklyn. She always make me feel like one of the family. I love the happy feeling in the family, where kids are always ready to sing a song and there is always time for funny stories. 


Tabaski is the biggest holiday in the year for Muslims. Unfortunately, Senegal celebrated the holiday one day later than Mauritania (and the rest of the world) and when I realized this I called Aissata and told her that I would not be able to come. She firmly informed me, "We are waiting for you. You will come and miss just one day of classes. Get here as soon as possible! We are all waiting!" So that settled the matter. I had to travel to Kaolack!


I am so happy that Aissata set me straight. I had the most amazing visit and celebrating the holiday with friends really put things into perspective. I got to see all of the preparations and take part in every aspect of the holiday.... although I did opt out of watching the sheep slaughter! 


The first day I was there we drove to edge of town to visit the Sheep Market. Many Mauritanians travel all the way to Kaolack to sell their sheep there, where they get a higher price than in Mauritania.

We walked around the entire market. Aissata inspected the sheep and debated the prices with each vendor. She then discussed all that she had seen with her team (all men) and then returned to the second vendor we visited and selected the two sheep she had seen previously. She handed over the cold cash and we left with our sheep in tow. 

With the sheep purchased, the remaining planning could be done. The market, which Lonely Planet claimed is the "largest covered market in West Africa," was completely overflowing with people, as vendors set up stands in all of the public roads and spaces (the mayor charged 3,000 CFA for each vendor). It was nearly impossible to walk anywhere. While trying to get to Aissata's stand (where she sells household goods) a surge of people pushed me onto a pile of onions. which thankfully made for a soft landing!


At the market, women were busy buying new curtains, upholstery fabric, sheets, serving plates and other new things for their homes. They also bought fabric to bring to tailors who then will work their magic to make beautiful embroidered ensembles. In the weeks building up the holiday, they return to the market many times to shop for the perfect accessories for their outfits, including purses, shoes, and jewelry. 

The night before Tabaski is an enormous party in the market, where nearly every single person in the town comes to shop and visit with friends all night long! There is music blasting from speakers everywhere and there is excitement in the air. The boys in my friend's family didn't return home until 5:00 am! 

On the day of Tabaski, all of the men go to the mosque to pray at 8:30 am. When they return, everyone eats breakfast and then the cooking and cleaning commence! The men slaughtered the sheep while the women cut enormous piles of onions and potatoes. 

After all of the gritty work is done, plates of food are brought to the neighbors and then the eating begins! It is a mutton bonanza for the rest of the day! 

The last part of the celebration is mostly for the young, who spend the entire night laughing and talking with friends. It was a parade of the best dressed women I have ever seen! 

I definitely have a lot to learn about fashion from these gorgeous women! I hope that one day I can celebrate Tabaski in Kaolack again. 


When I started thinking about the day, it seemed that the way that Tabaski was celebrated in Senegal is much the same as the way that my family celebrates Thanksgiving. The morning is spent working, the afternoon is spent eating, and the evening is spent visiting friends and family. The more time I spend with people the less different they seem. There are always common threads that tie us all together, although sometimes it can take a little bit longer to find them.