The fact that I may be leaving (my future is still uncertain) has made me realize that I better get to work on all of the projects I have had in my mind since arriving. One of these projects was to make a silver bracelet- one like all of my Mauritanian friends wore in New York. I will wear it and think of them and also my time here. I saw one of my friends was wearing a very nice bracelet and so I asked him where he got it and if he could help me make one too. He happily agreed.
A few days later we went to the market where they sell ostentatious gold jewelry, presumably for weddings and special occasions. I picked a style of bracelet I liked (which is not really Mauritanian... ironically) and then went to weigh it and negotiate the cost with a group of metal workers (forgerons) who were busy pounding and polishing in a wooden shack. We agreed on a price and they made the bracelet in just 24 hours. I picked it up this morning and have not taken it off. Now I am thinking about other styles and designs I could ask them to create. The possibilities are endless!
A few days later we went to the market where they sell ostentatious gold jewelry, presumably for weddings and special occasions. I picked a style of bracelet I liked (which is not really Mauritanian... ironically) and then went to weigh it and negotiate the cost with a group of metal workers (forgerons) who were busy pounding and polishing in a wooden shack. We agreed on a price and they made the bracelet in just 24 hours. I picked it up this morning and have not taken it off. Now I am thinking about other styles and designs I could ask them to create. The possibilities are endless!
In Mauritania the forgerons are a caste of people- so metal working is a skill passed from generation to generation. One must be born into the caste to be able to touch metal. The same is true for all professions- fishermen, singers, historians, scholars, etc. Over time the rigid roles have changed and people see beyond the caste system but it is still a strong part of Mauritanian culture and identity. People are still judged based on their caste and not their work ethic or personal achievements. Marriages are arranged and work promotions are granted based on caste. Everyone knows the caste of their peers and even if they profess to not care about caste it is still nearly impossible to completely eliminate it from in their worldview.
If the caste system was eliminated, perhaps the age-old skills of metal-working and other crafts would be lost. Or maybe there would be a new generation of workers who continue the trade, regardless of caste. I sense that this is already happening as economic forces and increased urbanization have forced the society to change. I would love to have time to research how many forgerons are actively working in their trades, and how many of the forgerons working today were born into the caste. I value the immense skills of the forgerons in Mauritania, whether born into the caste or not, and I am happy to support them and their beautiful creations.
Mauritania will also remember you adorable Delia. Interesting and exact portrayal of the caste system in Mauritania. Yes, these metal workers are just wonderful; they are very intelligent and creative. I really wished their work was properly valued and their skills made available to the larger public. Unfortunately though, the stigmatization of this caste and its activities is still a sad fact about the Mauritanian society. Yacoub Coulibaly
ReplyDeleteThank you Yacoub. I agree that the stigmatization needs to change....
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